Audi A4 B6 Generation – Window Regulator And Motor Replacement
2001 – 2005 Audi A4
Vehicle In This Guide:
2004 Audi A4 / 1.8L engine / 97,000 miles
If you own an Audi, chances are that you will eventually have to replace the window regulator on it. If you are extra lucky you will have to replace multiple regulators. A common sign of a failing window regulator is a crunching noise when lowering and raising the window. Another sign is the window having difficulty moving and stopping midway. Finally your window may not even be able to move at all. There are a few simple tools required to remove the regulator and it shouldn’t take you more than a couple of hours if you take your time and come prepared.
T25, T30, & T45 Torx bits
Ratchet wrench with extension
Flat head screw driver
Trim Removal Kit (Optional)
Door Trim Removal
1. Begin by removing the door panel trim. IMPORTANT: Start from the side closest to the front and pry the trim out. You can use a flat head screw driver or a much safer alternative is a trim removal tool. When you get to the end, pull the whole piece sideways to the left.
2. With the trim removed there are several screws underneath. Remove them.
3. There is an additional screw that needs to be removed under the armrest and also along the bottom of the door.
4. With the screws removed you can now take out the door panel by lifting it up slightly and pulling it towards you. However, before the door panel can be removed completely, you have to disconnect the door lock cable.
5. Also undo the electrical cables at the window motor and speaker.
Removing Door Components
6. Remove the top half of the weather stripping. Just grab and pull – do not remove the bottom half.
7. Remove the window motor that is held by three bolts…
And undo the electrical cables.
8. Remove the sound deadening material. It is held on with some pretty weak glue.
9. Remove the door speaker – that is held by three T25 bolts. Because the top half of the door is coming out you will have to feed the power mirror wire back through the door (1).
10. Finally, undo two more clips that hold the power mirror wire to the door.
Separating The Door In Two
11. Time to remove the bolts that secure the two door halves together. Remove all the T45 bolts. Undo clips (2) and (3). There is also a bolt on the side of the door. Remove the cap that is by the mirror (1) – it is held together with clips.
12. Remove the cap (1) to get access to the side bolt. Unclip the rubber plug(2) – do not remove.
13. With the cap removed, take out the remaining bolt.
14. Take the top half of the door and lift it out. You should be left with the following.
15. Take the window assembly and remove the two bottom screws. After that you can remove the glass.
16. Remove the last two bolts that hold the window regulator and you will be able to remove it.
Window Regulator Installation
Putting everything back together is straightforward. When you first removed the door you may have noticed that a couple of metal tabs fell out. Those tabs go between the left and right top bolts.
1. Join two door halves.
2. Clip the power mirror wire to the door and install speaker.
3. Tighten all the bolts.
4. Install sound deadening material.
5. Install window motor.
6. Install weather stripping.
8. Install door panel & trim piece.
Looks like pretty good instructions. My window only goes down about an inch or so and I am afraid to try and get it any lower. The last time it did go lower, I could not get it back up without grabbing it and pulling upward. So I do not use this window at all, but for that one inch it does go down – it seems ok to there and back … but I pretty much don’t use the window at all.
Yeah this is a common problem – having to grab the window and pull it upwards. Only real solution is to replace the regulator. But if you don’t use the window then save your money.
Thanks for detailed explanations. Really good that.
I’ve uncounted mine. But haven’t removed the T45 bolt yet. When I took the window motor off, there are some loose spiral wires that I can see. Do I need to change the regulator.
The window is all the way up. It’s got stuck suddenly one day mid way. I had to pull it up manually. It doesn’t go up and doesn’t go down.
Yes, that is a classic sign that the regulator needs to be replaced.
Thank you for the good instructions, I have Audi 2005 A4 the only window that works in this car is the driver side. all the other 3 windows do not work or make any noise whether using the master switch or the individual switches. Also when you put the key in the driver side door and you hold it, none of the windows go up or down. Also when you use the remote control to lock and unlock the doors, all the doors locks and unlock except most of the times the driver door you have to use the key to lock it. I checked all the wires and they are good and replaced the computer under the driver feet with a used one and still doing the same thing. Any Idea what could be the problem? thank you very much in advance.
For the windows, remove the door panel and check the window regulators and make sure they are not broken. Remove the window motor but leave it connected to the electrical connector and see if the gear on the motor moves when you hit the window switch.
The the driver door lock problem is probably due to a bad locking actuator. Again you would have to disassemble the door to get to it.
Thank you very much, I tried that and found out that passenger side motor is not working. I did not try the other 2 back windows, but I am sure they are also have the same issue. Do you thing that the regulator caused the motors to go bad? Thanks again.
I can see one going bad, but all three? I’m not too sure about that. Before you start replacing the motors it is probably a good idea to test the motor connector with a voltmeter and see if you actually have a signal going to the window motor. Or, if the electric connectors on the driver and passenger side are the same you can hook up the good motor and see if it works on the passenger side.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. Just a word of caution the new regulator coil has zip tie. do not remove this or else the coil will spring out. it is a real painful lesson…to rewind and get it back.
Hi Pete, I have just got the part in the mail and noticed the zip tie. At which stage do you remove this? Also does the new regulator have to be set to the same position that the old one was in…or does this matter?
Done, Thanks so much!
The back door was a bit different, no need to remove the speaker and finding all of the screws was a challenge (wish I took pics) on my 04 A4 but once I found them this was an easy fix. Also found the part on ebay for $26!
This is my first Audi and after @ 16 months have replaced this and the door release cable on the passenger side. Both seem to be a recurring issue after 10 years.
Odd thing I’d like to mention: my A4 keeps thinking the hood is open then the alarm goes off and kills the battery. I removed the fuse for the alarm and it’s helped but occasionally and of course in the middle of the night the alarm trip, flashers blink but no beeps due to fuse pull, and the battery dies again. I’ve started carrying a portable jumper in the trunk and it seem the only fix is to buy an entirely new hood latch for the dealer ($135).
Curious if others have a work around?
The hood latch sensor is just a contact switch. If you don’t want to spend the money on a new latch you can always work around it by cutting the two wires going to switch and connect them together (with solder or something else). Of course the car will always think that the hood is closed after doing this.
I left my front two windows down overnight and it rained. Now my driver side window won’t roll up. Any ideas as to what the problem could be?
My window on the driver side once go dwn now can’t go up. I have checked and the mechanic says the regulator is broken, or damage. He said it cost $300 to fix and the regulator needs to be order, and it is a second hand one as well.
Can you please tell me about how much it cost to fox and where can i order the parts.
You can buy it online at any place that sells audi parts – ecstuning.com, fcpeuro.com, rockauto.com, etc. There are many many options – just do a search online. Price will be about $150 for the whole assembly. It takes about 2 hours to change out if you have never done it before. I’m sure a mechanic can knock it out in about an hour.
Has anyone had a problem with removing the top half of the door (i.e. the window and its frame)? I have positively removed all of the necessary bolts and everything required but the frame won’t lift up and off. Any tips? Thank you!
Ok, I’ve been working on my 2002 a4. Started replacing the regulator last night. Got everything done, THEN the stupid cable on the new regulator came unraveled. I got it on once now there is slack that I cannot for the life of me tighten up. Please please, any suggestions?
I have a issue with my passenger side front window, at first it was randomly going down without toughing the buttons, and then it wouldn’t even go up, eventually it just rolled back up without touching the button, which rolled down again after a few mins. I left it in the garage and came back out two hours later which it then rolled up like normal but few mins later rolled back down again any ideas?
I have a similar problem with my right front window (2003 A4). I bought new regulator clips from regulatorfix.co m for $10 and will see if that is what I need to fix the problem.
Got window off regulator almost on but seem to tight to go round the last cog … Help needed
Thank you very much. I have followed your detailed instructions and simply perfect. It took me around 3 hours due some little problems with a bold of regulator, I suppose it was because the kit is not Audi brand. Thats all. Good job. Thanks again.
I have a 2005 Audi A4 Quattro 3.2 and there was some issue with Passenger front side window with crunchy noise. Finally it got stuck and I was not able to close the mirror. I believe there was an issue with regulator and I visited a mechanic who did not have the parts available at that time but he opened the entire door to just push the mirror up temporarily so that I can drive the car. He found that some wire stuck in between and that’s why it was not going up. He removed the wire and cut regulator wire also, pushed the mirror up and fixed it temporarily. Immediately after that when I drove my car, it stopped with in 50 yards, I started it but again it stopped after 50 yards, I faced this issue 3-4 times and after that it is running fine. I believe there is some synch up of regulator wire with centralized computer system which was trying to identify the issue, is it? One more thing I observed after that there is one more issue with boot door and I am not able to close it. May it be related to with that regulator wire which was cut down by that mechanic?
Great detailed instructions. I have a question, do you know the countersunk screw size on step 16. I was replacing the regulator but the one I bought on Amazon had the holes smaller that the original. I ended up cross-threading it Thanks.
Thank you for this guide. It worked for me.