Audi A4 Clutch Replacement

Disconnecting Shifter Rods And Dropping The Transmission

13. Disconnect the the shifter rods.

  1. 10mm bolt. When you remove this you will probably find that you cannot slide the joint off of the rod. What you have to do is twist it back and forth while pulling. It will come out.
  2. 8mm allen bolt. Little room to work with but can be done.

audi a4 shift rod

14. Remove the bolts from the front axles (at the transmission side) by using a 8mm triple square bit. A nice tip that I got from someone else is to tap the bits with a hammer to make sure that it is all the way in. Follow up by disconnecting the axles from the transmission. In my case, once all of the bolts were out the axles would not disconnect. I took a big hammer and hit it a couple times and it broke free. Set the axles on top of the transmission mounts. audi a4 axle disconnect

15. Final step is to remove the transmission mounts. Place the jack under the transmission and remove the 3 bolts holding each mount in place. The metal brackets can stay attached to the transmission. audi a4 transmission mount

16. Double check that everything has been removed and get ready for the scary part. Slide the transmission back so that the input shaft clears the pressure plate and then drop it down. Transmission jack is a nice tool to have but you can still do it with a regular jack. audi a4 dropping the transmission

Shot of the pressure plate audi a4 old pressure plate

Shot of the flywheel. audi a4 worn flywheel

Stock clutch is toast. At the time of this repair, the car had roughly 94,000 miles. audi a4 stock worn clutch

There is a big debate on whether to resurface and reuse the original flywheel or buy a new flywheel. While I chose to have mine resurfaced I still recommend that you buy a new flywheel. When you resurface the flywheel you run the risk of throwing it off balance. The springs in the flywheel wear out as well and require a flywheel replacement as well. Spend a little more now and save yourself the headache of doing everything over again later. At this point I wanted to replace the rear main seal and the input shaft seal. Click on the respective links to read those guides or continue to the next page to see the clutch installation instructions.

Audi A4 Rear Main Seal Replacement

Audi A4 Input Shaft Replacement

# Raj 2014-04-20 01:42
Wow, nice writeup and great pictures
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# sheldon bell 2014-04-30 12:45
Did it the clutch made a rumbling noise when pressed in and no gears worked. What did I do wrong?
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# Gabe 2014-05-02 18:23
probably bent the shift rod or the thing he said not to bend and be careful with when putting the transmission back in. if so ive seen a post where a guy made that mistake so he just bent them back and it worked for him. just be sure to look into more before attemting
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# Artem Vestsorov 2014-05-02 21:59
What do you mean by, "no gears worked"? Were you able to put the shifter into the gears but the car did not move? You may have installed the clutch backwards. I've seen it happen. When you installed the clutch did you properly tighten down the pressure plate all the way and was the clutch disc secured tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate? Without more details it could be anything - wrong parts, bent shift rod, backwards clutch, slave and/or master cylinder may need bleeding, etc...
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# Franck 2014-07-19 17:14
Thanks for the great write-up. It was very helpful on our '96 A4 Quattro. The only thing i did differently was how i installed the slave cylinder. I found another write-up that recommended to grease up the the rubber boot while avoiding the end of the piston. This allowed me to seat the slave cylinder by hand without using a bent screw driver. this was much easier. I had the slave cylinder in under 5 minutes.
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# mike the mechanic 2014-10-04 15:56
I cleaned the hole with wirebrush when gearbox was off, then lubricated slave cylinder with non-silicon "rubber care"lubricant, it took couple of minuts to install.
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# Clutch Kits 2014-11-24 10:50
thanks for sharing such an knowledgeable post. looking forward to see more good posts by you.
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# dikgang 2014-12-29 14:42
Clutch pedal is loose,does nt pump
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# David Schlossman 2020-04-30 21:32
Quoting dikgang:
Clutch pedal is loose,does nt pump

Just keep trying to bleed it the clutch will go to the floor for awhile then it will slowly start coming back up
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# toyo toe 2015-04-17 22:24
Excellent write up. Thank you for sharing.
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# anthony 2015-05-09 16:35
what side is the slave cylinder on? i need to replace it. drivers or passangers?
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# Jimmy 2015-05-11 11:10
Driver's side near the top of the transmission. You can see the 6mm Allen bolt after removing the front driver's side wheel.
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# vict0ar 2015-06-10 00:21
I recently did this job and this guide was quite helpful. On my early 99betwo, there were a few differences.

1. Needed to remove the precat o2 sensors. I couldnt squeeze the pipes between the frame and mount with the sensors on. Borrowed the 22mm tool from autozone and used a 2' extension from the top.

2. Was able to get the top transmission bolts with a 3/8 drive 6 point socket and an adaptor to 1/2 drive ratchet. Was not able to get them with the multiple long extension method. Too much stuff in the way made it hard to properly engage the socket and the long extensions gave too much play.

3. Bolt 6 requires 16mm offset wrench.

4. Wasnt able to get the 8mm hex on the shifter linkage. Was off by millimeters with my hex tool. Proly coulda hunted down a smaller tool. Instead i loosened it from the inside, moved the transmission back a tad, and was then able to access the bolt.
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# vict0ar 2015-06-10 00:25
Should say early 99 quattro
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# Cj 2015-06-25 20:38
Thanks i had a buddie put my clutch in, i gave him the link to this tutorial it worked great! also i didnt get a new flywheel i had it turned at a local machine shop and i have had no problems with it, just a tip if you want to save like 400 bucks on a new one... not saying it will work for all flywheels i had it checked with a depth gage and mine wasnt that bad so i had it turned id suggest doing your research on the tolerances of your specific flywheel before having it turned, i paid 60 bucks and it worked great, so this tip might save u 340 bucks or so, like i said do your research first! i dont want any one to screw up their car lol :) thanks again!!! Great tutorial
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# kevin 2015-07-12 03:15
great write up! i was wondering when/if i should change my flywheel, my car is about to hit 175 i think ive been getting the throw out bearing squeel sound so im gonna do a clutch kit job just wanted your input
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# broke audi owner 2015-09-08 03:20
Accelerater was kinda stuck initially. Pushed a bit harder and it completely loosened and engine revved up to red line. Now every time i start it the engine insta red lines to like 7k rpms. Wtf did i do wrong, help pls?
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# Jimmy 2015-09-08 12:04
I can't see how anything with this job would affect the accelerator. If yours is a 97-99.5 1.8T it's an AEB meaning a drive-by-cable. Maybe when you reconnected all those electrical connections in the engine bay something snagged the cable? You should see a physical cable connected to your accelerator pedal that is controlling throttle input into the engine... follow that to see what is making it stick.

Other A4's were drive-by-wire, meaning an electrical signal is sent from the accelerator pedal to the computer, which is then sent as electrical signals to the engine. If you have disconnected the battery then you need to run through a procedure to have the ECU relearn the accelerator position to throttle mappings. Just google for the procedure.

My assumption is you have an AEB engine since you mention the pedal was physically stuck.

Good luck!
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# still broke 2015-10-13 22:57
Thanks for the ideas jimmy.

I was able to figure it out the next day after some rest. When torching the o2 sensor, i think i let the flame get a bit out of control and it melted the plastic housing the accelerator cable slides in causing the cable to hang up. I simply cut away the damaged material and everything works properly.
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# Jt 2016-06-26 23:06
I have everything removed but my trans will NOT come off. Help please!
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# R.F.B. 2016-11-16 03:09
((((Clutch/Tran smission)))((( PROBLEM---MYSTERY))))))
I have just purchased a*** 2001 Audi/A6, 2.7-T, V-6, Twin Turbo, Quattro:***
Symptoms: Turn motor over and engage the clutch, put in gear, disengage clutch, and NOTHING happens...IN FACT...You can take the Gear Shifter, while engine is running, foot completely off clutch...And go "Shift Crazy"...litera lly... AGAIN...NOTHING HAPPENS....I am BAFFLED...Pleas e somebody HELP/SOS...any and all input greatly appreciated, MUCH!!!!!!! (OR) IF you could even point me in the right direction , Thank you.
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# AudiA4 2016-11-28 20:19
Same exact problem here, we bleed it, pulled our the slave cylinder and all that is fine, about the bring down tbe tranny to access the clutch plate and clutch release bearing. We'll see how that goes but should be easier thx to this article.... I hope...
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# Artoes 2016-11-28 18:45
I followed this and also took the flywheel and had it resurfaced, put everything back together. The clutch and trans. work fine but my engine now chokes up at 1800 rpm, could I have messed up the timing when I reinstalled the flywheel, it would only bolt up one way.
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# Natedawg1954 2016-12-24 16:46
This was awesome !!best tutorial I've read which will save me a ton of time replacing these parts.Your post is the only one that I found on the internet that showed direct pictures and what to do.All the others was just lousy no pictures,no explanation step by step,no videos at all of a manual transmission or replacing the rear main seal.GREAT LITERATURE keep it up.
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# Mark tankersley 2017-12-11 20:19
Have a 2003 A4 1.8 liter quatro. I'd appreciate the required tools and technique applicable to the replacement of the entire clutch assembly.
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# Mark tankersley 2017-12-11 20:23
Would appreciate description of a clutch replacement on my 2003 A4 quatro 1.8 liter vehicle. Thanks MUCH, mark tank.
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# Nicholas Hall 2019-08-04 16:33
There are actually 10 bolts on my 98 A4. Took the 9 out and there was one more at the bottom. Just a heads up. Just got mine out, great write up.
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# Robert Goldener 2020-03-11 01:04
This was and is the best write up on this "pain in ass" procedure. Especially when your DIY is done in your driveway with the car up on jack stands. I saw one video where the gent drops the sub-frame and slides the tranny out that way. Much easier but not doable on the ground. He of course had a full lift and transmission jack which would make a world of difference. The three bottom bolts are inaccessable due to the subframe and a real pain in the ass to remove or install. I saw many comments that were quite hilareous on these bolts. And I needed a good laugh at this point in the process. I am going to NOT put those little bastards in and hope for the best. (The German designer for this transmission needs to be beaten with a stick or worse or tasered into submission.)

One thing I suggest (that we failed to do when we pulled the transmission) is to label the transmission bolts as you remove them. Follow the guides that I found on this link:

Scroll down to see the diagram that shows bolt placement and length of the bolts. Label the bolts to match the numbers on the diagram and it will save time on installation.
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# Max 2020-08-07 23:00
how did you get the bottom bolts out without dropping the subframe
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# Peter 2020-10-23 11:22
Oh boy what a nightmare this job was. Did this on a 2001 A6, 2.4 V6, 5speed, quattro. Everything that could go wrong did. Now some of the things i did differently:
1)On the C5 the bottom bellhousing bolts are accessible with a standard 16mm wrench, however the upper driverside bolt hits one of the coolant lines, so the hose has to be brutally bent to get the bolt out. Didnt put that bolt back. F whoever designed that.
2)Couldnt get the RMS flange to seal. Twice. Ended up putting a light coat of RTV silicone on both sides of the gasket, that did the trick.
3)Was going to change the guide sleeve too, but the torx bolts holding it in are made out of butter, stripped them and just gave up. Use airtools if you can.
4)Flywheel was rebuilt(all new internals) and resurfaced by a shop that specializes in that.
5)For the clutch slave cylinder i used the bent screwdriver method described by OP but i also lubed up the part that slides into the bell housing.
As for the tools, i didnt have any of the special ones. For the flywheel i got the bolts all "tight" and then added about about a 100 degrees at which point it was "really f'ing tight". Couldnt be bothered to buy a torque wrench.
As for aligning the clutch disc, i just eyeballed it, worked perfectly fine.
Cars runs and drives much smoother, thanks for the writeup OP.
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# Supradin 2021-03-17 07:45
Can´t see any image. It´s my problema or webpage problem?
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