Mazda Fusion Engine Swap - Transferring parts from the old engine to the new engine.
1. Remove the Mazda crankshaft pulley from your old engine. If you have an impact that can get the bolt off, great. If not, then you can make your own breaker bar using a couple of pipes from Home Depot. Use a flywheel holder tool or wedge something in the flywheel to keep the crankshaft from moving as you loosen the crankshaft bolt. I know the home made breaker bar looks ridiculous but trust me, it is very effective.
2. Before you can remove the crankshaft pulley from the Fusion engine and replace it with the Mazda part you have to line up the crankshaft and the camshafts correctly. In case you did not know, the crank pulley on this engine is not keyed so if you end up taking the pulley off, you will need some tools to keep the crankshaft and camshafts in the correct positions. The tools consist of a timing peg, a camshaft alignment plate, and a M6x1x50 bolt.
3. The first step is to remove the Fusion pulley. On the engine, locate a small bolt on the back of the engine. This is where the timing peg is installed. Remove this bolt.
4. Using the crankshaft bolt, rotate crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder is in the top dead center position. There is a small hole in the crankshaft pulley and when it is in the 6 o'clock position, you have your top dead center. At this point, install the timing peg. If everything is done correctly you should not be able to rotate the crankshaft in the clockwise direction with the timing peg installed.
5. Install the M6x1x50 bolt through the small hole in the crankshaft pulley.
At TDC, the camshaft slots should should both be horizontal. Allowing you to install the camshaft alignment plate.
6. Install the plate and it will keep the camshaft in place as you remove the crankshaft pulley.
You can now remove the Fusion pulley. You will have to keep the crankshaft from spinning - do not rely on the timing tools to hold everything in place. They are not designed to withstand the torque that is required to loosen the crankshaft bolt. You can wedge something in the flywheel to keep the crankshaft from spinning or buy or make a flywheel holder tool.
Once you have the Fusion crankshaft pulley off, install the Mazda pulley, use a new bolt and washer,and tighten to 74 lb-ft + an additional 90 degrees. Again use something to keep the crankshaft from spinning - do not rely on the timing tools. Remove all the timing tools. Rotate the crankshaft 1 and 3/4 turns and reinstall the camshaft plate and timing peg. Try to install the M6x1x50 bolt - if you can install it that means timing is correct. If you cannot install the bolt then you will have to redo the procedure.
If you have an older 2003 - 2005 Mazda 6 you will need to transfer additional parts as discussed in the beginning of the guide.
1. Lower the engine in the engine bay and tighten:
- Front engine mount bolt - 85 lb-ft.
- Transmission mount nuts and bolt - 46 lb-ft.
- Torque strut bolts - 66 lb-ft.
2. Install intake manifold (if removed).
3. Install the A/C compressor and tighten to 18 lb-ft.
4. Hook up the coolant hose to the thermostat housing.
5. Install the power steering pump and torque the bolts to 18 lb-ft.
6. Install the alternator and tighten the bolts to 35 lb-ft.
7. Install the slave cylinder and bracket. Torque to 16 lb-ft.
8. Install the rest of the coolant hoses.
9. Install the shift cables and bracket.
10. Install exhaust manifold. Tighten the exhaust manifold to cylinder head nuts to 41 lb-ft. in a cross pattern (in two stages). Tighten the two exhaust pipe to manifold nuts to 30 lb-ft. Tighten the bracket to 15 lb-ft. Tighten the heat shield bolts to 89 lb-in.
11. Hook up all the wiring harnesses.
12. Hook up the rest of the tubes and hoses.
13. Install the axles.
14. Connect the upper control arm and the tie rod to the steering knuckle. Tighten both nuts to 35 lb-ft.
15. Install the battery tray and battery.
16. Install the air cleaner assembly.
17. Make sure you filled up all the fluids and start it up. The end.
After everything was swapped over I took the car out for a test drive and noticed that the engine wanted to stall when the car was stopped. I had to keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep the rpms up. After driving for a few mile the problem went away and the engine idled correctly. My guess is that the throttle body was re-learning.
You may be wondering what to do with the cylinder head temperature sensor that is installed on top of the Fusion engine. You don't do anything with it. The Mazda harness does not have an electrical connection for it. Just leave it in place and cover up the opening in the valve cover with the Mazda rubber cap.