Audi A4 Clutch Replacement

Installing The Clutch And The Transmission

1. Install the flywheel. Use new bolts and tighten to 40 lb-ft + 180 degrees. Tighten the bolts in stages and using a star pattern. I tightened all 8 to 40 lb-ft followed by 90 degrees for all of them and finishing off with another 90 degrees for all 8. Mark the bolts so you don't accidentally over torque them. To prevent the flywheel from turning, find a suitable open ended wrench. Wedge it against one of the guide dowels and have a helper hold it in place as you tighten the flywheel. This method is strange, but it's free and it works. A better method is to buy the Audi 3242 Crankshaft Lock Tool and use that to keep the flywheel from moving. audi a4 new flywheel install

2. Use the clutch alignment tool to align the clutch disc and then install the pressure plate. Use new pressure plate bolts and tighten to 18 lb-ft audi a4 sachs clutch

3. Next step is to install the transmission. Just take it slow and make sure that the shift rods and slave cylinder do not get pinched by the transmission. You will want to have a second person helping you guide the transmission in. audi a4 transmission install

4. Tighten the transmission bolts using the torque specs below. audi a4 transmission torque

5. Install the transmission mounts and tighten the bolts to the following specs. audi a4 transmission mounts

6. Install the slave cylinder and tighten the bolt to 15 lb-ft. I had a lot of trouble with this step. You won't be able to slide the cylinder back in with your hand. Find a screw driver and bend it a little. Feed it into the mounting hole and use it as leverage to slide the cylinder back in. Slightly rotate the the cylinder back and forth as you feed it farther inside the transmission. Once it's all the way in you will see that there is a little indentation on the transmission where you can rest the cylinder without it popping out. Hold the slave cylinder in place with your hand while installing the bolt. audi a4 slave cylinder install

7. Connect all the electrical sensors. The engine speed sensor needs to be tightened to 7 lb-ft.

8. Install the drive axles and tighten all the bolts to 30 lb-ft.

9. Install the shift rods. Tighten the shift rod to 17 lb-ft and the pivot rod (the 8mm allen bolt) to 30 lb-ft. Yeah, good luck getting a torque wrench in there :).

10. Install the drive-shaft. Tighten the front and rear bolts to 41 lb-ft and the center support to 17 lb-ft.

11. Install heat shields over the drive axles. Tighten to 17 lb-ft.

12. Install exhaust. Tighten the exhaust pipe to manifold bolts to 18 lb-ft. The exhaust bracket bolts should also be torqued to 18 lb-ft.

13. Cross your fingers and start the engine.


Raj 04-20-2014 01:42
Wow, nice writeup and great pictures
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
sheldon bell 04-30-2014 12:45
Did it the clutch made a rumbling noise when pressed in and no gears worked. What did I do wrong?
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Gabe 05-02-2014 18:23
probably bent the shift rod or the thing he said not to bend and be careful with when putting the transmission back in. if so ive seen a post where a guy made that mistake so he just bent them back and it worked for him. just be sure to look into more before attemting
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Artem Vestsorov 05-02-2014 21:59
What do you mean by, "no gears worked"? Were you able to put the shifter into the gears but the car did not move? You may have installed the clutch backwards. I've seen it happen. When you installed the clutch did you properly tighten down the pressure plate all the way and was the clutch disc secured tightly between the flywheel and the pressure plate? Without more details it could be anything - wrong parts, bent shift rod, backwards clutch, slave and/or master cylinder may need bleeding, etc...
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Franck 07-19-2014 17:14
Thanks for the great write-up. It was very helpful on our '96 A4 Quattro. The only thing i did differently was how i installed the slave cylinder. I found another write-up that recommended to grease up the the rubber boot while avoiding the end of the piston. This allowed me to seat the slave cylinder by hand without using a bent screw driver. this was much easier. I had the slave cylinder in under 5 minutes.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
mike the mechanic 10-04-2014 15:56
I cleaned the hole with wirebrush when gearbox was off, then lubricated slave cylinder with non-silicon "rubber care"lubricant, it took couple of minuts to install.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Clutch Kits 11-24-2014 10:50
thanks for sharing such an knowledgeable post. looking forward to see more good posts by you.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
dikgang 12-29-2014 14:42
Clutch pedal is loose,does nt pump
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
toyo toe 04-17-2015 22:24
Excellent write up. Thank you for sharing.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
anthony 05-09-2015 16:35
what side is the slave cylinder on? i need to replace it. drivers or passangers?
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Jimmy 05-11-2015 11:10
Driver's side near the top of the transmission. You can see the 6mm Allen bolt after removing the front driver's side wheel.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
vict0ar 06-10-2015 00:21
I recently did this job and this guide was quite helpful. On my early 99betwo, there were a few differences.

1. Needed to remove the precat o2 sensors. I couldnt squeeze the pipes between the frame and mount with the sensors on. Borrowed the 22mm tool from autozone and used a 2' extension from the top.

2. Was able to get the top transmission bolts with a 3/8 drive 6 point socket and an adaptor to 1/2 drive ratchet. Was not able to get them with the multiple long extension method. Too much stuff in the way made it hard to properly engage the socket and the long extensions gave too much play.

3. Bolt 6 requires 16mm offset wrench.

4. Wasnt able to get the 8mm hex on the shifter linkage. Was off by millimeters with my hex tool. Proly coulda hunted down a smaller tool. Instead i loosened it from the inside, moved the transmission back a tad, and was then able to access the bolt.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
vict0ar 06-10-2015 00:25
Should say early 99 quattro
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Cj 06-25-2015 20:38
Thanks i had a buddie put my clutch in, i gave him the link to this tutorial it worked great! also i didnt get a new flywheel i had it turned at a local machine shop and i have had no problems with it, just a tip if you want to save like 400 bucks on a new one... not saying it will work for all flywheels i had it checked with a depth gage and mine wasnt that bad so i had it turned id suggest doing your research on the tolerances of your specific flywheel before having it turned, i paid 60 bucks and it worked great, so this tip might save u 340 bucks or so, like i said do your research first! i dont want any one to screw up their car lol :) thanks again!!! Great tutorial
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
kevin 07-12-2015 03:15
great write up! i was wondering when/if i should change my flywheel, my car is about to hit 175 i think ive been getting the throw out bearing squeel sound so im gonna do a clutch kit job just wanted your input
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
broke audi owner 09-08-2015 03:20
Accelerater was kinda stuck initially. Pushed a bit harder and it completely loosened and engine revved up to red line. Now every time i start it the engine insta red lines to like 7k rpms. Wtf did i do wrong, help pls?
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Jimmy 09-08-2015 12:04
I can't see how anything with this job would affect the accelerator. If yours is a 97-99.5 1.8T it's an AEB meaning a drive-by-cable. Maybe when you reconnected all those electrical connections in the engine bay something snagged the cable? You should see a physical cable connected to your accelerator pedal that is controlling throttle input into the engine... follow that to see what is making it stick.

Other A4's were drive-by-wire, meaning an electrical signal is sent from the accelerator pedal to the computer, which is then sent as electrical signals to the engine. If you have disconnected the battery then you need to run through a procedure to have the ECU relearn the accelerator position to throttle mappings. Just google for the procedure.

My assumption is you have an AEB engine since you mention the pedal was physically stuck.

Good luck!
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
still broke 10-13-2015 22:57
Thanks for the ideas jimmy.

I was able to figure it out the next day after some rest. When torching the o2 sensor, i think i let the flame get a bit out of control and it melted the plastic housing the accelerator cable slides in causing the cable to hang up. I simply cut away the damaged material and everything works properly.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Jt 06-26-2016 23:06
I have everything removed but my trans will NOT come off. Help please!
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
R.F.B. 11-16-2016 03:09
((((Clutch/Tran smission)))((( PROBLEM---MYSTERY))))))
I have just purchased a*** 2001 Audi/A6, 2.7-T, V-6, Twin Turbo, Quattro:***
Symptoms: Turn motor over and engage the clutch, put in gear, disengage clutch, and NOTHING happens...IN FACT...You can take the Gear Shifter, while engine is running, foot completely off clutch...And go "Shift Crazy"...litera lly... AGAIN...NOTHING HAPPENS....I am BAFFLED...Pleas e somebody HELP/SOS...any and all input greatly appreciated, MUCH!!!!!!! (OR) IF you could even point me in the right direction , Thank you.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
AudiA4 11-28-2016 20:19
Same exact problem here, we bleed it, pulled our the slave cylinder and all that is fine, about the bring down tbe tranny to access the clutch plate and clutch release bearing. We'll see how that goes but should be easier thx to this article.... I hope...
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Artoes 11-28-2016 18:45
I followed this and also took the flywheel and had it resurfaced, put everything back together. The clutch and trans. work fine but my engine now chokes up at 1800 rpm, could I have messed up the timing when I reinstalled the flywheel, it would only bolt up one way.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Natedawg1954 12-24-2016 16:46
This was awesome !!best tutorial I've read which will save me a ton of time replacing these parts.Your post is the only one that I found on the internet that showed direct pictures and what to do.All the others was just lousy no pictures,no explanation step by step,no videos at all of a manual transmission or replacing the rear main seal.GREAT LITERATURE keep it up.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
nissan teana 10-02-2017 12:53
mua xe hơi ko nè
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Mark tankersley 12-11-2017 20:19
Have a 2003 A4 1.8 liter quatro. I'd appreciate the required tools and technique applicable to the replacement of the entire clutch assembly.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Mark tankersley 12-11-2017 20:23
Would appreciate description of a clutch replacement on my 2003 A4 quatro 1.8 liter vehicle. Thanks MUCH, mark tank.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Mashamemia 12-13-2017 13:11
This message is posted here using XRumer + XEvil 4.0

XEvil 4.0 is a revolutionary application that can break any anti-botnet CAPTCHA's.
Captcha Solution Google (ReCaptcha-1, ReCaptcha-2), Facebook, BING, Hotmail, Yahoo,
Yandex, VKontakte, Captcha Com - and over 8.4 million other types!

You read this - it means it works! ;)
Details on the official website of XEvil.Net, there is a free demo version.

Check YouTube video "XEvil ReCaptcha2"
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
Duane 12-27-2017 18:24
Some times clutch pedal stays down and got to pull up with foot as you can imagine hard when ur in gear what can it be please
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote
IvantheGr8 01-04-2018 19:36
Good info great pics very helpful information if you're doing it yourself.
Reply | Reply with quote | Quote

Leave a Comment